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Flora, Fauna and Follies…a Roundelay of Gardens in Paris

Parc Florale Paris

 

Parc Florale Paris

Flora: Beautiful Giant, Giant, Giant Rhododendrums are hiding in the Parc Floral, a contemporary-designed showcase park, in eastern Paris in the Bois Vincennes opposite the Chateau Vincennes…. Photomontage of many big plants above!

Parc Florale

The combination of the Rhododendrums and tall white Pines impress!

Parc Florale Paris

Especially on the dreary rainy day in May that I visited and was surprised by the gorgeous Rhododendrums….There is always something in bloom in gardens, contrasting gardens that just bloomed or are about to bloom !
Parc Florale Paris

Above shows the “in between” plantings time from April’s blooms to June’s blooms….The park hosts fantastic events and concerts in the summer here…..Motto for May: Don’t leave home without your umbrella/parapluie!

Parc Florale Paris Watercolor by Lois Bender

When you’re so excited about color, it’s hard to remember to leave white space….. here’s a first wet into wet layer that dried; then, I added the accents of bright color.  Wet into Wet on a larger scale is just bigger “Charging in color” and tilting the paper to control the runny pools of watery paint!   Charge!

Parc Florale Paris Watercolor by Lois Bender

Here’s more white space! A Good Rule: Stop when you think your watercolor is “unfinished!” because the white space reads as light, connecting the form and color! I forget that the unfinished quality has this strong power of suggestion.

Parc Florale

You can get lost looking at all the Rhododendrums, but the fun signage points the way….

Photo-Parc-Montsouris-9715s

and now for the Fauna! in the next Garden to the south…Parc Montsouris, a 14th arrondissement urban park in the “landscape style” innovated by the 19th c. Alphonse Alphand under Baron Haussmann’s direction in 1878, is done in a grand “man-made” style with sloping lawns, majestic trees, circular flowerbeds and allées with landscaped scenic vistas, custom-designed for promenading by nature-craving industrial age city-dwellers — a style subsequently imitated worldwide….(Central Park?)

Parc Monsouris in Paris

This watercolor vignette of a meandering park corner gives the woodsy bucolic tranquility on another!… rainy day in the park….Then I wandered upon the lake where under some small dwarf pines, to my surprise,

Photo-Parc-Montsouris-2 Black Swans

I found my very own “Black Swan Lake,” home to many wildlife birds, including 2 Blacks Swans and their 2 baby swan(lings?)s! Never seeing black swans before, and seeing they really exist, was startling to me….

Parc Montsouris

An actual real contrast to our very own East Hampton pair of swans in the pond by Guild Hall….Perhaps the swans can do an exchange program for a year so we can see black swans in East Hampton for a year….And speaking of Fauna, did you know…?

Kangaroos at the Jardin des Plantes

that Paris has its very own Kangaroos residing at the Jardin de Plantes’ Zoo (Paris’ Botanical Garden and Zoo) …..YES, Quelle revelation!

Jardin-des-Plantes

This 18th c. Garden, founded in the Age of Enlightenment by France’s great Men of Science, has great educational programming in all “Flora and Fauna” as I learned! while searching for the “Rosarie” Garden

Jardin-des-Plants-WC-Bender

in front of the great 18th c. architecture…..before another round of rain, “La Pluie”…..

Jardin-des-Plants-WC-Bender

…. now time to run into a “McDo,” MacDonald’s for “un café and wifi”…. before I face the “Follies”

Jardin du Albert Kahn

On another day (note finally the sun!) I followed Frenchman Pierre’s (of Pierre’s Restaurant in Bridgehampton) advice not to miss the Musée et Jardin du Albert Kahn, a place paying tribute to the 19-20th c. outstanding businessman-diplomat who believed in world peace through understanding the world cultures. Both Pierre….and Kahn….are right!  The Musée’s 5 Gardens represent different world cultures, of which the Japanese Garden is truly an amazing example of landscape design in the eccentric design genre or “Follies,” using surprises of textures, constructions, shapes, layerings, color and materials like Bonsai miniature trees on platforms standing in the ponds, conical pyramids in stone, tricks of scale and size, sharp color contrasts…. There’s an imported Tea House and Village…. It’s just eye candy everywhere you turn!…..

Albert-Kahn-8397s

Textures bombarding you in unusual designs…. See the “Dot Motif” in the Pines and stones….
New England stone walls were never like this….

Albert-Kahn-8427s

The repetitions of  the Cone shape in topiary-shaped plants…. yet not at all like French Formal Design, Bien Sur!

Jardin du Albert-Kahn

And the reflections in the pool were incredible…. so many great photos I couldn’t put into this blog….Jardin du Albert-Kahn

I got so involved in “noodling” the details of this watercolor! The intensity of the yellows & blues captivated me….

Jardin du Albert-Kahn Watercolor by Lois Bender

Red leaves of the Japanese Trees in Spring add range and variety to a non-autumnal garden! I just kept widening my eyes and dropping my jaw at seeing so much invention, conception and innovation in”artifice and style” here in the layerings of shapes of colors!

Photo-Parc-Monceau

But French Gardens have their own conceptual “Follies” style of exotic themes, a garden style originating in the 1700s. I leave you here at Parc Monceau in the northern “quartier” of Paris which has its very own Metro Monceau to continue the Garden Tour next blog with Parc Monceau (with exotic, fanciful, romantic and picturesque jardins a la mode). In this “Painting the Gardens of Paris” tour, time for an Intermission, D’accord, “ok?” ….Mais, oui!!…… I leave CAMAC, Marnay-sur-Seine, tomorrow for Paris for a few days before returning to NY. So many Gardens, so little time, ….but time to take a breath for a relaxing end to the tour!

Meet the Pigeons! G-a-r-d-e-n-h-o-p-p-i-n-g Parisienne …..

Photo-Jardin-du-Palais-Royal

Sunny! Perfect for Pigeons to have elegant perches, catching a few rays! I revisited the Palais-Royal after I my first visit was thwarted by “Fermé,” closed for an art installation….

 

 

Photo-Jardin-du-Palais-Royal

Gray…   : (

Photo-Jardin-du-Palais-Royale

Sunny……! ……….Gray……,   Sunny…….,  Gray……..,   Sunny ……….  all day….

Jardin du Palais-Royal

It was a cloudy, sunny and also an almost rainy day in rotation a few weeks ago, but I actually sat and painted this watercolor at the Jardin du Palais-Royal and by late day, the sun won out! The problem was do I paint it sunny (warmer colors) or cooler-grayer and tried to stay in middle! Ideal time for 2 paintings and switching back and forth!!!!! Pigeons make a home on many a head of a statue….and defy making a “Dignified” shephard and his goat. The storied past of this garden where royalty lived and the 18th c. Rococo aristocrats and Revolutionary Enlightenment intellectuals intermingled and schemed is legendary and you walk in their footsteps…. Buildings peek in everywhere when painting French gardens, and this Palais-Royal facade had gorgeous neutrals and geometry….
and to provide contrast the roses of course…..

Photo-Jardin-du-Palais-Royal

The shepherd’s friend sitting further down has his own pigeon. I noticed that the statues at the Jardin du Luxembourg, such as the Reines de France (Queens),  solve the problem with long metal needles placed into the tops of their heads….. not here though…Though charming perches for Paris pigeons…, Pidgeon “Poo” does’t look very good on them!

Suare Vert Galant on Ile de la Cite

Another iconic garden in the literal center of Partis I loved is the “trop petit” postage stamp of a triangular park at the front tip of Ile de la Cite by the Pont Neuf…..

Photo-Vert-Galant-Henry-IV-7837s

with an equestrian Statue of France’s King Henry IV (late Renaissance) above it…..
his royal policies resulted in great civic improvement and added physical beauty to Paris.

Sq-Vert-Galant-Henry-IV-Sketch by :Lois Bender

..quick studies revealed there were no pigeons sitting on Henry IV’s head…..
no doubt due to is royal powers, I’m sure….

Square Vert Galant + Henru IV Statue

I seemed to have made Henri IV into a giant lording over His Paris with a sky of white clouds to roam in. It seems once you start painting clouds in Paris, you can’t stop!

Vert-Galant-1s_8937

I went up to where Henry permanently reigns and saw the view below of this triangle where you see both sides of the island and the bateaux-mouches’ depot— the angle was irresistible.

Square Vert Galant on Ile de la Cite

and jarring but an interesting point of view always catches my eye…..

Photo-Vert-Galant-Henry-IV-7829s

A Panorama with The Louvre on the Right Bank…. Padlocks professing love abound
everywhere on Paris’ bridges, as well here….

Vert-Galant-Henry-IV

No Pidgeons!

Tuileries'12s-Panorama_0118b

And always The Tuileries invite a memorable walk… Especially when heading to the fabulous Libraire de Jardin, Garden Bookstore, at the other end of Les Tuileries near La Place de la Concorde. The bookstore’s present site was once the home of the famous legendary French Landscape Architect of Versailles, Vaux Le Vicomte, etc., Andre Le Notre (1613-1700)….It’s marked with his commemorative statue…………I took this photo 2 years ago in the cold freezing June of 2012 and decided to paint its panoramic view with this year’s flowers….. why not!

Panorama of Jardin des Tuileries

Clouds and Gardens would be more true to my project’s reality!…
Clouds of Paris! and the Louvre always!

M-Delacroix-1s_9505

But how about a restful quiet garden?? Like the one at the  Musée Eugene Delacroix which was housed in Delacroix’s studio and garden of his later years. I took a photo from a window within his studio of his garden… I got chills thinking I was in the very beautifully skylighted studio where he created his work!

Jardin de la Musee Delacroix

I sat in the garden on site and did this hoping I could catch the feeling quickly…. and wanted to do more variations of colors… so I did a few more back at the studio I have in Camac…

Jardin de la Musee Delacroix

Stressing the lavender and green palette… There’s no one way to see color! …..
Neutral taupes can go many ways!  Blue-er here!

Photo-Camac-from-my-window

But looking out of  the studio window of Delacroix brought me back to thinking about my studio window of my temporary studio at Camac and the beautiful view…. I took so many photos of the sky colors, clouds and lighting effects! Look at the amazing evening golden light colors with a dark cloudy overcast sky….such drama!

The House at CAMAC, Marnay-sure-Seine

It’s like doing a combo -lighting of night and day in 1 painting!
(Magritte did one…now at Moma!)

Sunset at Camac from my window

 Sunsets are now at 9:45 pm !!!!  Sparkling golden light on the stone….. Such long days and so much daylight is amazing to have as an artist…. With sunrise at around 5 am, it’s practically 17 hours of daylight at the summer solstice! June 21 tomorrow! Giverny and More ….G-a-r-d-e-n-h-o-p-p-i-n-g…. to come! Happy Solstice from Paris and near Paris …. avec beaucoup, beaucoup des couchers de Soleil beaux de Marnay-sur-Seine! ……..À la prochaine !

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